Well…hi! Here I am… sitting in front of my giant fan, floor model, since my overhead slowed down to about 3 RPM’s.
It seems that when you accidentally stick your 8 ft bamboo ceiling brush in the rotating blades, it shuts the sucker down. I would have a better chance at booking Britney Spears to fix the fan then I would a Merida electrician. You call, leave at least four messages with the wife and then the electrician returns your call. A week later, he enthusiastically states that he’ll be at your home the next day at 9 AM. To that date and time, you add 2 weeks and 7 hours.
So, you will wait for him on the 14th day following the confirmation call… at 4PM. The plumber is the same… but you should subtract a day from the equation… I do not now why. When the repair guy does show up, you will be just going out the door for another appointment, which you will have to reschedule. You will greet the repairmen with the same level of enthusiasm that you would greet any leader of the free world, or some Queen or King person who happened by the house. They would be more significant in your life. Tonight, my friend Debbie called me to say goodbye since she is leaving for her (other) home (in Tucson) at 2 AM tomorrow morning.
She has spent the last year reconstructing and redecorating her new B&B in Merida. Her existing B&B in Tucson has been written up in the New York Times and The Architectural Digest of Spain. During her call, I could hear her sloshing through water as she told me that the roof was ” leaking “. She was surveying her tastefully decorated interior at the time… preparing to leave town despite the thunderstorm and the reality that her contractor had cut a few corners on the roof job. I love the spirit of my friends here. She arranged for another contractor- friend to come and pour tar on the roof tomorrow, since she is headed out of town as planned. “I’m not worried,” she said, as the water sloshed about her ankles. “After all, the renter isn’t coming for another three days.”
Last Saturday, I went to the performance of the Regional Theater, which is about 30 kilometers from Merida. You sit on stone benches…with cushions… and watch the everyday life of a typical pueblo. The whole town engages in the play (407 people). You sit and watch as if you were on a hillside looking down at the town. The actors play themselves and their lives… there are religious celebrations, children playing games, women cooking, men doing traditional ceremonies, and colors… so many colors… of the costumes… of the colors of Mexico and the Yucatan. The children dance in unison… beating out the rhythm of the Yucatan through their dance steps… a hundred of them together… the girls looking like blooming flowers in their huipiles ( flower embroidered dresses), and the boys in white with the red bandanas dropping from their waists. This is our culture displayed, and it is beautiful and moving. The dance, “El Toro” made me cry… it was an enactment of the bull ring… with dancers… it was magnificent. Everywhere you go, in this precious land, you are surprised by beauty and culture that is so understated… so shy.
I have 10 directors from the tourist bureau coming for dinner at my restaurant tomorrow night. I have spent a month showing my face frequently in their offices to get them here. They have changed the reservations several times but… tomorrow, they are mine… to cook for… and to feed. I call my food ” The New Yucatecan Cuisine”. I do all the cooking and even the serving because I am broke now. In the future, I’ll have people to help me serve, and even prepare the meals. Now, I really like to work hard and see where the glitches are. Actually, the restaurant is becoming known in Merida, which is great. The dinners have been fine… under the stars… in the garden… by candlelight… with soft and romantic Yucatecan guitar music… and the food is sensational. So they tell me. My sons still remind me of the days when we arrived home… after my psychiatric nursing job… and their daycare… when I threw a package of chicken legs in the microwave and served them with catsup. It’s different when you have two tired youngsters wrapped around your legs begging to be fed. They now are big fans of gourmet food… miles away from the chicken fingers and corn dogs.
And the rains do come… filled my rubber 8×8 pool tonight with just rainwater. But with the rain, we have a different variety of ants … big, honking, WWF ants that could carry away a sofa. There’s an ant for every season here… small as a pinhead and big as three raisins stuck together. I saw ten of the small guys moving a cat crunchy up a wall. I was so impressed with the team spirit, that I let them live. Then there are the big guys that mule a huge cat crunchy all alone. You see this huge brown thing going across the floor…thinking it’s a mutant form of bug… then you realize it’s a large ant with a cat crunchy on its back… it’s inspirational… they get to live, too. And the rains do bring in the real scary bugs. I had a black scorpion in the living room that I could have used a lobster measure on… huge critter, tail up, claws out… all that scorpion action. I nailed him with a shovel. The huge spider-thing guy came in again, the guy with all the extra parts hanging off him… like little claws and additional legs… ugh… ugh… ugh. My friend, Bud (who lives in Merida) asked me to put one in a jar for him since he has never seen one in his houses… here or Belize.
I said that I would put a leash on the freako spider… and tie it to the pole outside his house. He said that when he lived in Belize, a scorpion stung his partner on the hand… their house was on a remote island and his partner freaked. He of downers… I wouldn’t care if I was in a scorpion pit… it would all be OK. There are a lot of places here that are a tad remote for prompt medical attention. I have cats and cats and cats. Four are officially mine… been neutered… vet check ups and all that. Four others also live on the patio and wait for food, which I always give them… thanks to the huge Costco Discount bags. And now the females are bringing their children… and the males are doing this gladiator thing on the patio. We have no animal control here… probably the Catholic Church would condemn it anyway and create a patron saint of cat pregnancies. They still like everything and everybody to have babies… without any financial support from the church. One woman I met had 23 children… can you imagine keeping the names and the birthdays straight? It’s better now… some women choose tubal ligation, and a chance at supporting their families.
Many women have husbands, but many also have partners who are not involved with the family, and have left for other people and places. The difference here… as opposed to the US… is that we have no AFDC or social security for deserving women. I’m finally going to Holbox… a cool island near here… to dive. It will be so fine to be under the water again… weightless… among the spectacular reefs of the Yucatan. Oh… and please go to Iluminado Tours (that’s iluminado) website and see what else I’m doing here. There are links to my restaurant and to the tours we offer. Check out the Casa Santa Ana web site next to Debbie’s picture… and… please… send the Iluminado Tours website to all your friends. That would be cool. I miss you all… but… I am so in love with Merida and Mexico that a USA lifestyle is now impossible. You should visit this incredible place….it is so beautiful.